Over the years, our advice on how to choose a white precious metal has altered as prices have fluctuated, and with gold at an all-time high, platinum lower, and palladium back in the picture, it is time to refresh our information again!
Initially, let’s take a look at the price of a popular wedding band style across various white metals. Prices for wedding bands vary widely depending on width, depth, and finger size, so this just gives you a way of comparing the same item across different materials! (Prices compared 28/03/2024)
|
Argentium silver |
£150 |
|
9ct white gold |
£700 |
|
18ct white gold |
£1730 |
|
Palladium 500 |
£500 |
|
Palladium 950 |
£710 |
|
Platinum 950 |
£1200 |
|
Sheffield Steel |
£240 |
|
Titanium |
£200 |
What strikes us immediately about the prices is the expense of 18ct white gold in comparison to platinum. For a long time, platinum was regarded as the expensive although practically superior option, but the platinum band now costs around 70% of the price of the same piece in 18ct gold! Also interesting, is the reduction in the cost of palladium since our last update. This metal had increased in price dramatically, but has since dropped back, making it a relevant choice once more.
There is more to making this choice than just the price though. White metals typically require more maintenance than yellow or rose gold, and the long term variations in appearance, durability, and upkeep should be a strong consideration when choosing, especially for pieces that will be worn on a day-to-day basis, such as wedding rings.
Let’s start with white gold. This is an alloy formed by adding other metals to gold. Since gold begins life as a yellow metal, materials with a whiter colour are added to produce the white gold alloy, but they create a cream to pale yellow hue, that is plated with rhodium to achieve the popular bright white finish. To understand the alloying, we must remember that pure gold is known as 24ct. 9ct gold contains 9 parts gold for every 24 (37.5% of the metal is gold), while 18ct gold contains 18 parts per 24 (75% of the metal is gold).
The rhodium plating is only a temporary finish that wears off over time, particularly on rings. Polishing and replating can restore the original colour and shine, and you may choose to have this carried out periodically.
The metals used in the alloy vary by manufacturer, but in 9ct a high percentage of silver tends to be added, while in 18ct much of the alloyed material may be palladium. This creates a very significant gap in both the colour and durability of the metal, when comparing 9ct and 18ct white gold.
Although it contains far less gold, 9ct tends to be more yellow, because the silver is less successful at bleaching the colour. This may mean that 9ct white gold rings require replating more regularly. Silver is also a soft metal, so using it in the alloy makes 9ct white gold soft too. This is not ideal for rings that will be worn on a daily basis, especially where they have quite minimal settings for stones, so 9ct white gold rings do require additional care.
In contrast, 18ct white gold, although it contains far more gold, is often whiter, so may need replating less frequently. This is especially true of alloys with a good proportion of palladium, which also creates a hardier material, better suited to regular wear.
The reason palladium is not used in 9ct alloys is the expense of the material. Adding palladium would improve the appearance and durability, but increase the cost too, and with gold already at an all-time high price, this would further reduce affordability.
Palladium itself was initially promoted as an alternative metal for jewellery because it offered a more affordable alternative to platinum. Naturally white, and harder wearing than white gold, palladium wears similarly to platinum but was a fraction of the price. When we updated our advice in early 2020, palladium had increased in price hugely and had become the most expensive option for white metals, but over the past year it has dropped significantly, and has now become increasingly relevant again.
Originally, a 95% (950) palladium alloy was used as standard, although a 50% (500) alloy has become increasingly popular too. Palladium 500 is a little darker in colour but otherwise broadly similar.
The factor that holds palladium back from becoming more widely used in jewellery is the impracticality of working with it. While ideal for use in manufactured goods like wedding bands, it is not so suited to making or repairing cast pieces such as ring mounts, limiting its use in a wider range of jewellery.
Platinum has long been regarded as the preferred white metal option but was traditionally also significantly more expensive than others. With continued increases in the price of gold however, this is no longer the case. As our example demonstrates, platinum is now more affordable than 18ct white gold.
The metal is naturally white, hard wearing, and dense. Their density makes platinum rings feel heavy, especially wedding bands, which can often represent a decent ‘chunk’ of precious metal in the first place. Platinum is strong and ductile, making it ideal for producing delicate designs and strong settings; the fashion for fine detailing in early 20th century jewellery was largely possible because of developments in manufacturing techniques, allowing jewellers to work more extensively with platinum. All these properties make platinum an ideal metal for jewellery.
Previously, we didn’t consider silver in our precious white metal updates but given the increased cost of white gold, it is perhaps time to do so. Silver is a soft metal and is prone to tarnishing. Its softness means it is generally regarded as unsuitable for setting valuable stones into, and we would still recommend avoiding it for pieces such as engagement rings.
However, for wedding rings, argentium silver may provide an alternative. This alloy is bright, harder wearing, and more tarnish resistant, and therefore better suited to regular wear than traditional sterling silver, so if you are looking for a wedding band with a fine quality of manufacturing finish but on a more limited budget, it could be worth considering.
If durability is a particularly strong consideration, there are also non-precious white metal options, such as stainless steel and titanium. These are hard wearing materials that have become very popular, especially with men looking for alternatives as precious metal prices have increased.
Stainless steel has a similar bright white appearance to platinum and white gold and takes a beautiful polish. Our Sheffield steel bands are made in the city with locally sourced steel, and are particularly popular as wedding bands with local lads born and raised in the steel city and keen to celebrate its heritage.
Titanium is a slightly darker metal, famously very light although simultaneously very strong. Our titanium rings are also produced in the UK and finished to a high standard.
Both steel and titanium offer the opportunity to choose a chunkier (if not heavier in the case of titanium!) style without increasing the price. The pricing of these pieces reflects the work put into making them rather than an inherent value in the material, so a substantial ring does not need to be more expensive.
However, it is worth bearing in mind that these materials are less flexible than the traditional precious metals, so they are not able to be altered so easily. Over the lifetime of a ring, particularly a wedding band, resizing is normally required (our workshop is always busy resizing customer’s gold or platinum wedding bands!). If you opt for steel or titanium, you should be prepared to replace rather than resize your ring in the future.
Ultimately, for the best combination of flexibility, durability, and a luxurious weighty feel, our recommendation would be platinum. However, if your budget doesn’t stretch that far, palladium offers similar advantages without the weight and at a lower price. Decreases in the palladium price means that, for wedding bands at least, it is now a fantastic alternative to 9ct white gold, offering a much more practical material at a similar (or in the case of palladium 500, lower) price.
Additionally, whether for reasons of budget, wear, or hometown sentiment (in the case of Sheffield steel), choosing a non-precious white metal offers an even more wallet-friendly option, so long as you are aware of limitations to the possibility of resizing in the future.
Those who prefer white metals have a vast array of options to choose from, which can be confusing, although it also allows your jewellery to be tailored to your preferences! If you would like to learn more about your white metal options, view worn samples to better understand the variation in appearances, or try on a range of styles, you can visit our showroom where our jewellers will be delighted to help you.